This special selection will feature five pieces by London based film director Marie Schuller. In her work, she reflects on a wide range of key fashion aspects such as fashion at the crossroads of cinema and photography, the representation or underrepresentation of the female body, and the subtle relationship between the body and clothing. Her work is often marked by surreal images that celebrate a hybrid artistic approach, opening up unbounded possibilities for the fashion film.
In this selection, Blue, commissioned by fashion brand Dice Kayek, demonstrates how Marie Schuller’s work is structured both within and beyond the tradition of fashion film. Her films Oyster and Visiting Hour, as part of SHOWstudio’s Fashion Fetish Project, comment on the contentious and provocative fusion of fashion with fetish, while embracing unconventional beauty. In Oyster, she features one of the most famous alternative models of all time, Anita De Bauch, and in Visiting Hour, she presents a mature model, Alex B., to discuss the underrepresentation of aging in the fashion world.
La Taille, shot in remarkable black and white, examines a historically contextualized fashion body. In this piece, the female waist becomes the historical parameter where fashion meets cinema and photography, referencing the iconic work of Jean Cocteau, Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann, and Hans Bellmer, among other inspirations. The thematic concerns of fashion and body are further explored in 12 Tableaux, in which the delicacy and even fragility of the female beauty is brought to the surface through this intimate and poetic portrait of American musician and model Jamie Bochert in menswear.
Marie Schuller is a London based filmmaker specializing in fashion content. Marie has been working for Nick Knight’s award winning fashion film platform SHOWstudio in London since 2010 where she holds the position of Head of Fashion Film. She collaborates closely with Nick and works with him on all his fashion film output, which includes campaign films for design houses such as Hermes, Marni, Alexander McQueen, Diesel and Armani.
Marie’s directing work has been screened internationally from the Kunsthalle in Vienna to the Centre Pompidou in Paris and she’s been awarded multiple awards including “Best Director of Fashion” at ASVOFF 2012, “Best Soundtrack” at ASVOFF 2013, “Best Beauty” at ASVOFF 2014 and “Best Styling” at Milan Fashion Film Festival 2014.
Marie was raised in Germany. She studied filmmaking at the National Film and Television School and completed her MA in Photography at the University of the Arts London. She is represented globally by CLM (www.clmuk.com).
Oyster / 2 min. 20 sec.
Oyster is one of three films produced by Marie Schuller for SHOWstudio’s Fashion Fetish series.The film, originating from Schuller’s commission for the London Fringe Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, is a candid exploration of personal fantasy. A lesson in fashionable flashing, the piece focuses on the fetish of exhibitionism, capturing a wholly unorthodox journey on the humble London Underground.
Inspired by 1930s Surrealism – specifically Jean Cocteau’s Le Sang d’un Poete – photographer Kristian Schuller and filmmaker Marie Schuller provide the waist, or more poetically “La Taille”, of our Fashion Body. Quite classically, Schuller chose to cinch her waist with an archive piece by the world-renowned couture corsetier Mr. Pearl (this example originally worn on Antonio Berardi’s S/S 1997 catwalk by Honor Fraser), alongside more unconventional pieces by Viktor & Rolf, Louis Vuitton and Gareth Pugh, in scenes reminiscent of Horst’s Mainbocher Corset and even the disturbing, deconstructed dolls of Hans Bellmer. Few garments fashion the body quite as dramatically as these fine A/W 2010 examples.
Dice Kayek ‘Blue’ / 5 min. 25 sec.
“Did we force ourselves on you, or you on us?”
“Dice Kayek ‘Blue’” is Marie Schuller’s latest collaboration with renowned-fashion brand Dice Kayek. The film recalls the 90s advertisement films of Mondinot for Jean-Paul Gaultier perfumes. With no clearly stated context and little narrative, the film beautifully highlights the qualities of Dice Kayek garments.
Pitti Uomo’s A/W 14 guest womenswear designer, London-based Brazilian-born Barbara Casasola, collaborates with SHOWstudio and muse Jamie Bochert on a series of film pieces to compliment her “Menswear for Women” capsule collection. SHOWstudio’s Marie Schuller produced sixteen looping mini films to be projected around Casasola’s presentation in Florence, as well as one beautiful fashion film, which can be viewed exclusively on SHOWstudio.
The projections and film channel the intimate aesthetics of screen tests, and focus not on showing off Casasola’s clothes but rather on capturing the independent spirit and playful attitude of celebrated model Bochert, who is the perfect example of the independent Barbara Casasola woman. Many of the projections explore nudity or the naked body getting dressed, offering a sensual nod to Casasola’s obsession with the unclothed female form when designing.
Visiting Hour is the central work in Marie Schuller’s trio for SHOWstudio’s Fashion Fetish series. The work references themes of age, memory and fantasy. With exquisite styling by Tamara Rothstein and art direction from Marlon Rueberg, this beautiful film is subtle yet sensual. Deliberately combating the under-representation of mature women in sexual imagery, the film delivers a pointed depiction of older females as sexual, beautiful and powerful beings.